holley sniper efi iac problems

The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Master Kit - Black Ceramic Finish The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Top 10 Sniper EFI Installation Tips from Holley's Tom Kise Seems to behave more better now. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Should I just disable idle timing control? On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. IAC Creeps To 100% - Holley Performance Products Forums If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. % = 49 Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. It is a common one. Then Friday night as I was driving home, the car started acting up. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. If As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. IAC Calibration / Hanging rpms | Team Chevelle Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. The problem was RF interferance . I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. I keep wondering how it was running so good with IAC Pos.% = 0 The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. MAP Sensor. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. MSD pro billet and 6AL box Solving RF Interference Issues in Sniper Installations - EFISystemPro.com That is the IAC hold position. back to trying to zero down an idle. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. any advise would be appreciated. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. Thank you so much for your follow-up. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) Holley Sniper review - The good, the bad, and learn from my - StangNet There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Do please let us know what you find out! I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. Jun 12, 2021. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. My problem is low idle. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. It wont fire up. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. The Street/Strip and race cam setups tend to be too rich initially. I keep doing that with the same result. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! Add To Cart. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. The tps will not auto reset to zero. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. Im thinking a faulty TPS. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Cycled the ignition off. They are prone to be inaccurate. Ok, so I'm stumped! It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. Hi. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Capability Range: Advanced Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. If I go any more it will ping. Except at idle. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table There is no real mystery here. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Hang in there--you can do it. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. The throttle plates are misaligned. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. The distributor was loose. Only show this user . have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 I am right back to where I started. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). The RPM would increase for no reason. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Interesting question. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. lower until I turn down the set screw. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. It's all part of the adventure! I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. Car was running great initially. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. check out the. Please advise. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. Its timed to 36 degrees. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble.

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